# Avant-Garde Trend, Spring 2027 · London Fashion Week Source: https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/avant-garde Data refreshed: October 7, 2026 Avant-Garde appeared in 44.2% of looks at the London Fashion Week SS27 womenswear shows, about the same as SS26 (48.5%). 52 designers showed it across 641 looks. ## Numbers - Share of looks: 44.2% - Share in SS26: 48.5% - Change: −4.3 pts (steady) - Looks: 641 - Designers: 52 - Rank: #1 of 25 key themes by share of looks ## In the press Avant-Garde came up in 31 articles from WWD, Vogue, Who What Wear and 5 more. In the data it was in 44.2% of looks, about the same as SS26 (48.5%). - WWD, 2026-09-22: [Erdem, Simone Rocha, Steve O Smith Wow Buyers at Spring 2027 London Fashion Week](https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/erdem-simone-rocha-steve-o-smith-buyers-spring-2027-london-1239251521/). Deconstruction is named a key idea, from Simone Rocha and Erdem to a McQueen gown with unravelling tulle. - Vogue, 2026-09-22: [Rory William Docherty Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/rory-william-docherty). Rory William Docherty transformed one shirt detail through elaborate drawing, knotting and material experiments. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [Simone Rocha Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/simone-rocha). Simone Rocha used metallic threads to make taffeta dresses hold manipulated shapes. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Chopova Lowena Spring 2027: On Pins and Needles](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/chopova-lowena/review/). Chopova Lowena made complex runway layers from detachable apron and carabiner components. - Who What Wear, 2026-09-28: [6 Designers From London Fashion Week You Should Know, According to An Expert](https://www.whowhatwear.com/fashion/trends/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2027-best-emerging-designers). Agro Studio explored transparency and light refraction through couture methods. - Fashionista, 2026-09-23: [The 8 Coolest Trends From London Fashion Week Spring 2027](https://fashionista.com/2026/09/london-fashion-week-spring-2027-trends). Fashionista linked London experimentation to organza reworking, visible handcraft and unconventional garment combinations. - AnOther, 2026-09-21: [Grandiose and Brutal, Seán McGirr Brings McQueen Back to London](https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/17489/sean-mcgirr-mcqueen-review-spring-summer-2027-london-fashion-week). McQueen combined sculpted tailoring, winglike gown volumes and substantial silver harnesses. - Forbes, 2026-09-24: [London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027: Key Trends To Know](https://www.forbes.com/sites/laiafarrangraves/2026/09/24/london-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-key-trends-to-know/). Alison Lai brought surreal film references and an experimental approach to feminine tailoring. - Vogue Business, 2026-09-22: [London Is So Back: Key Takeaways From Spring/Summer 2027](https://www.vogue.com/article/london-is-so-back-key-takeaways-from-spring-summer-2027). Fashion East designers retained unusual craft and garment details while improving commercial wearability. - TheIndustry.fashion, 2026-09-17: [LFW SS27: Highlights from Paul Costelloe, Agro Studio, Keburia and more...](https://www.theindustry.fashion/lfw-ss27-highlights-from-paul-costelloe-agro-studio-keburia-and-more/). Agro Studio manipulated textiles and discarded buttons to produce optical distortion. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [McQueen Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen). McQueen interrupted formal gowns with harnesses, distorted fabric and corsets extending beyond the shoulders. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [Roksanda Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/roksanda). Roksanda built gowns from yarn and transformed painted silk scarves into adjustable dress or tunic shapes. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [Yaku Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/yaku). Yaku combined family stories with fantastical detailing, exaggerated props and unusually constructed clothing. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Yuhan Wang Spring 2027: Sweet Dreams, Beautiful Nightmare](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/yuhan-wang/review/). Yuhan Wang combined drawer-like clothing constructions with transformed bedroom objects and displaced lingerie. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Knwls Spring 2027: Time to Grow Up](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/knwls/review/). KNWLS used concealed construction to hold seemingly falling-apart garments in place. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Paolo Carzana Spring 2027: Mysteries of the Cloth](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/paolo-carzana/review/). Paolo Carzana layered shredded knits and very light woven fabrics into unconventional, shrouded forms. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Chopova Lowena Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/chopova-lowena). Chopova Lowena combined folk costume, fantastical creature references and bowling-inspired clothing. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Yuhan Wang Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/yuhan-wang). Yuhan Wang turned drawers, crockery and dressing-table objects into surreal clothing details. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Knwls Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/charlotte-knowles). Knowles described the collection as lots of deconstruction and layering, after women half undressed in Chambre Close. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Pauline Dujancourt Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/pauline-dujancourt). Pauline Dujancourt used labour-intensive woven flowers and emotional textile experiments to build fantastical clothing. - WWD, 2026-09-19: [Fashion East Spring 2027: Trying Out Ideas](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/fashion-east/review/). Fashion East designers tested new processes, including knitted tailoring resembling crumpled paper. - WWD, 2026-09-19: [Petra Fagerström Spring 2027: Duality of a Woman](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/petra-fagerstrom/review/). Petra Fagerström developed deceptive hybrid garments and hand-sewn pleats that revealed two different images. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Fashion East Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/fashion-east). Newcomer Mé Mé showed romantic deconstruction, with organza gowns taken apart and broken-down tailoring. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Ashley Williams Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/ashley-williams). Ashley Williams distorted familiar girlhood references through unusual combinations and surreal construction. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Natasha Zinko Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/natasha-zinko). Natasha Zinko distorted role-play clothing with padded corsetry, stiff bonded fabrics and unusual functional details. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Susan Fang Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/susan-fang). Susan Fang combined manipulated ceramic imagery with intricate printed lace and experimental layered surfaces. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Mowalola Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/mowalola). Mowalola closed with a dress incorporating broken plastic plates transformed into shiny decorative pieces. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Paolo Carzana Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/paolo-carzana). Ritual-like staging, wimple-style headdresses and wrapped, knotted layers built an otherworldly myth. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Petra Fagerström Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/petra-fagerstrom). Petra Fagerström fused a trench and leather skirt suit into one garment and used prints that changed with movement. - WWD, 2026-09-18: [Susan Fang Spring 2027: A Floating World](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/susan-fang/review/). Susan Fang placed dimensional printed lace over transparent clothing and developed digitally generated patterns. - Vogue, 2026-09-17: [Mithridate Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/mithridate). Mithridate transformed feathers into architectural hip shapes and individual beads into tartan fabric. Summaries are written by T-Fashion. Read each article at the source. ## Top designers by look count - Fashion East: 38 - Erdem: 37 - Chopova Lowena: 35 - 49 more designers in T-Fashion ## Worn with - Dress (apparel): 39% of the trend's looks - Skirts (apparel): 31% of the trend's looks - Black (color): 36% of the trend's looks - White (color): 32% of the trend's looks - Sculptural (theme): 36% of the trend's looks - Monochrome (theme): 11% of the trend's looks ## Runway looks 11 of 641 looks. Every look is in T-Fashion. - Di Petsa look 8, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/di-petsa/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0008-2154929f.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Bora Aksu look 26, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/bora-aksu/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0026-cd91b64e.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Susan Fang look 29, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/susan-fang/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0029-6139ee15.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Richard Quinn look 44, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/richard-quinn/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0044-47c9d8a9.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Labrum London look 35, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/labrum-london/ready_to_wear/photos/0035-27ada726.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Selasi look 11, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/selasi/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0011-6afda1d0.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Mowalola look 25, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/mowalola/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0025-41f91a0b.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Agro Studio look 6, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/agro-studio/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0006-cc44aa3f.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Rory William Docherty look 17, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/rory-william-docherty/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0017-a33df433.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Roksanda look 24, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/roksanda/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0024-70b8d05e.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Mcqueen look 8, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/mcqueen/ready_to_wear/photos/0008-b497da8b.jpg?format=auto&width=640 ## FAQ **How popular was Avant-Garde at the London Fashion Week SS27 womenswear shows?** Avant-Garde appeared in 641 looks from 52 designers. That is 44.2% of all looks T-Fashion analyzed for the London Fashion Week SS27 womenswear shows. **Is Avant-Garde a trend for spring 2027?** Steady on the runways. Its share of looks is 44.2%, about the same as SS26 (48.5%). **Which designers showed the most Avant-Garde for SS27?** Fashion East (38 looks), Erdem (37 looks) and Chopova Lowena (35 looks). **How does T-Fashion measure this?** T-Fashion tags every look of every Spring/Summer 2027 show. The share of looks is the number of looks with the theme divided by all womenswear looks in the scope. The change compares that share with SS26. ## Related trends - [Quiet Luxury](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/quiet-luxury): 5.5% of looks - [Minimalist](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/minimalist): 17.6% of looks - [Balletcore](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/balletcore): 4.1% of looks - [90s Retro](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/90s-retro) - [Cottagecore](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/cottagecore) - [Sculptural](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/sculptural): 24.1% of looks - [Androgynous](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/androgynous): 9.4% of looks - [20s Retro](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/london/20s-retro) This page is a preview. Every look, the full ranking and the designer and city breakdowns are in T-Fashion: [get access](https://tfashion.ai/book-demo).